Hunting for the Northern Lights

One of the main reason people visit Iceland during the winter is in the hopes that they will see the Northern Lights. While the lights are always in the sky, they are not always visible (The lights result from solar wind causing collisions between gaseous particles in the Earth's atmosphere with charged particles released from the sun's atmosphere). It is not as easy as driving out to a dark area, looking up, and seeing the Aurora Borealis. They say that you do not go on a Northern Lights tour, but on an Aurora hunt. It does take some patience and traveling to find them and some times even searching for hours, you may not see them even then.
The big enemies of the Northern Lights are cloud cover, city lights, and sunlight or in our case, the bright light from a full moon. Cold, clear nights are the best for seeing the lights because then there is less cloud cover, but it also makes it very cold tonstand.around and look for the lights.
We set out on Christmas night looking for the lights with a large group for a Lights hunt. Our convoy of 12 superjeeps, mini buses, and super vans made me think we were in an episode of Storm Chasers.  You can look at cloud maps, drive to a prime location, and still be thwarted by a passing storm (rain or snow), the full moon peeking out, or somehow you just miss them. We spent several hours chasing the lights that night and only saw a brief glimpse of them off in the distance. By the time we caravanned to the area we thought we had seen them, poof! they had disappeared. Most of the Northern Lights tours do say that if you do not see the lights that night, you can go again as many times as needed until you see them or leave Iceland. However, this is why the tour groups can grow so large. If you miss them one night, you join the next night's group. If that night gets canceled, more join the party the following evening. The tour did, however make a fun ending to the evening, at our last stop where we had hot cocoa and, for the adults, some vodka. Not the Northern Lights, but...it was midnight and I was ready to head back to the hotel.



Even if you do not see the Northern Lights, the tours are a wonderful opportunity to see parts of Iceland looking a bit other worldly with the geothermal features and moonlight on the snow.

We set out on the 26th on another tour, but in this instance it was just our one mini bus. After going on a larger Lights hunt and one with just the van and a group of 14 people, I would recommend going with the smaller group. I thought we had much more maneuverability and it is easier for one van to find a place to pull off than a large caravan.  But I should mention, luck plays a big part of finding the lights. On the 26th, we had been out searching for more than an hour and our guide, Heymir, read something in the sky that made him feel the lights were going to show themselves. To me, it just looked like a white contrail from a plane, but soon, it began taking on a greenish hue and suddenly, the sky came alive. Our light show lasted less than an hour and then the clouds came and blocked the view and Heymir announced "Okay, show's over!" and he was right. 

The Northern Lights are described as looking like curtains blowing in the wind or waves, but I don't think there are words to describe it. They are something that need to be experienced to really appreciate. I know my photos do not do them justice but hope they give you some idea of how amazing these "light shows" can be.

The Yule Lads, an Ogress, and a Cat: Or A Guide on How not to get eaten at Christmas

The Yule Lads

The Yule Lads are Iceland’s version of Santa Claus, except that there are 13 of them, each with their own distinct character (all but 2 of them having to do with food, which makes me think that winters in Iceland in the past were pretty bleak and tough-food wise). The Yule Lads live in a cave up in the mountains of Iceland. Do NOT make me say which mountain they live in. Depending on where you live the mountain is near you and all the people who claim it is a different mountain are WRONG! So, I am just going to keep it generic and say “A mountain in Iceland.”

And it is here that our story begins…

The Yule Lads are the children of a troll named Gryla. She lives in a cave and always has a big pot of boiling water at hand in case she should hear about some exceptionally naughty child who she might need to eat. Some years she goes hungry and other years…well, she travels with a large sack so she can transport naughty children back to her cave where she will boil and eat them. Gryla has been used by parents for centuries to keep kids behaving. In fact, in 1746, Icelandic authorities issued a decree forbidding parents from using Gryla to frighten their children. From what we heard Icelandic people say, to this day, parents are still using the threat to Gryla to keep children in line. In fact, the Icelandic word for “Icicle” is “Grylukerti” which means Gryla’s candle. She was recorded in the 13^th century as having 15 tails. She has been said to have an eye in the back of her head, and she has hooves, instead of feet.

The father of the Yule Lads is Gryla’s third husband. The first was a troll named Boli. The second was Gustur, whom she ate (I guess the kids were all good that year so she ate him because she had no kids to eat).  The third, and father of the Yule Lads, is Leppaludi. He is not known for much other than being a human, being the father of the Yule Lads, and really being quite lazy.

Gryla also has a sweet pet, the Yule Cat or the Jolakotturinn. If anyone does not get new clothing on Christmas Eve, the Yule Cat will eat them. Yes, I did visit Walkabout Outfitters and I made sure I had new socks for everyone so we did not end up in the belly of the Yule Cat. While we were in Reykjavik my daughter bought a ceramic statue of the Yule Cat.  The store owner asked us if we knew about the story of the Yule Cat. Dean said "Well, we all got socks for Christmas." At that point the owner knew we understood and told us how scared she had been as a child, worrying that the Yule Cat would eat her. Thank goodness for my crazy need to do research or we all might be in the belly of the Yule Cat. 

The Yule Lads start arriving on the 12^th of December. The first writings about the Yule Lads made them quite naughty or almost evil. After a few reprimands from the Church, the Yule Lads are more mischievous than evil. They have learned that it is better to give a gift and share in the joy than just be the receiver who just takes. But in most cases, in the past, their bellies lead the way, and while they may take food, if a child leaves their shoe out on the windowsill, a Yule Lad will present a gift (a toy, fruit, or candy) each night. If you are bad…well, you might just get a rotten potato.

They start arriving:

On December 12, Stekkjastaur or Sheep-Cote Clod arrives. He loves sheep’s milk and will try to steal some.

December 13 Giljagaur or Gully Gawk arrives. He slinks down the gullies, looking for cow’s milk to steal

December 14, Stufur or Stubby show us. He is very short and loves the burnt bits of food that get stuck to a pan. He will steal the pans and try to clean them off.

December 15 Pvorusleiker or Spoon Licker comes into town. He is as tall and lean as the wooden spoons he tries to find and lick. If you are making cookies and cannot find your wooden spoon, don’t blame your child, there may be a Yule Lad to blame.

December 16^th Pottasleiker or Pot Licker.  Yes, please do not wash dishes right away. Pot Licker wants to help. In our house, I think Pot Licker is a Black Lab named Chessie, but you never know…

December 17^th: Askasleiker or Bowl Licker:  Okay…Seriously. I am pretty sure that these tales were made up by women who did not want to do dishes. “Oh, no. I need to leave the bowls our for the Yule Lads.”

Actually,  the Askurs, the old fashioned lidded bowls, were pretty interesting. They were a hinged, lidded pot with each one having a different design, a name or initials and the date it was made.

December 18^th…dun, dun, dun….Hurdaskellier or the Door Slammer. This would be the most irritating of the Yule Lads (but not the creepiest). He liked to creep in when it was dark and slam doors. He is, however, not obsessed with food. So I have to give him some credit for that.

December 19^th: Skyrgamur or the Skyr Glutton. Yes, he has a point. Skyr is pretty amazing stuff. Most homes would have great wooden barrels of the stuff. It is kind of like a thick yogurt and amazing. I understand why he would want to steal it.

December 20: Bjugnakraekir or Sausage Stealer.  In past, the bjugu were really large sausages, about 6 times the size of a hot dog. No wonder he wanted them. He had a huge nose to sniff them out.

December 21: Gluggagaegir or Window Peeper. This sounds creepy and it kind of was. If a kid saw this Yule Lad, he would make weird faces to them away. He was mainly trying to find food to eat and scare kids away so he could get the food.

December 22: Gattadefur or Door Sniffer has a huge nose and never catches a cold.  He starts smelling the ‘leaf bread” and comes down from the mountains to find some.

December 23^rd: Ketkrokur or Meat Hook is one of the most industrious of the lads. He uses a hook to try to grab some of the roasting meats from a family’s hearth.

December 24^th: Kertasnikir or Candle Begger. While this does not seem like a big thing, to steal candles, in years past, children received for Christmas not much more that candles. They were made into Kings Candles to represent the Magi or into an Advent Wreath to count down the weeks until Christmas.

Then, starting on the 25^th, they start moving back up into the mountains so that the last one leaves on January 6^th or the Twelft Night. This night is another holy night for the people of Iceland. The last of the Yule Lads leaves to go back to the mountains, according to legend, hidden people move their houses, cows speak, seals leave their skin and walk on land, and elves walk around. It is a good time for bonfires to be lit and brighten up the night.

Icelandic Humor: Seeing the light during dark days

I have no idea why I did not think that the people of Iceland would have such amazing senses of humor. However, if you think about it, during half the year there is very little sunlight and you have to find laughter and lightness in your life to make the days shine during these days. The Icelanders we met were so fun and a joy to be with and the signs and artwork I saw around town and at our hotel made me truly appreciate their witty and silly humor. This is one of the many things I loved about the trip to Iceland.
 

"Is this mine or your seaman's hat?" I am pretty sure they realized how funny that sounds.

 

Small, but functional? Sure, this sign was just talking about the bathroom...

Just a father and son playing futbol in the street. Damn that car!

 

This sounds like something I might do...
 

This one was Gabby's favorite.
 

 

Just an FYI: This is not a Taco. And I am not sure it is edible.

Meal Replacement Replacement.

Still am not sure what the message is here. Does one pee here or not?
 

My friend, Woody.

 

Christmas in Iceland

I guess the reason I have been reflecting on Christmas so much is that this year we were going to be spending Christmas abroad, in Iceland, where Christmas traditions are a bit different from here in the United States. As a family we have spent the past few years traveling at Christmastime. As our kids have gotten older and we, as a family, have been thinking more and more about the impact of our society as one that is so consumer-oriented, we have been giving ourselves the gift of travel rather than store-bought gifts for Christmas. Dean and I are warm weather people and would rather be in the sun and on a beach than in the cold. So we have traveled to Florida, California, and Grand Cayman during Christmas holidays. However, our son, with his red hair and fair complexion, is more comfortable in cooler, darker climes. After we planned our Thanksgiving trip to Grand Cayman, Dylan asked if we would consider a less sunny place for Christmas. Dean had heard about how Icelandair has some great deals on travel to Iceland, and the plan was hatched. It was going to be a different sort of trip for us. I am a sun seeker and going to a place where the sun was going to rise around 11 AM and set around 4 PM was a little daunting for me.

   Now, while my friends in Virginia were posting on media about the 72 degree unseasonably warm temperatures, we were greeted at the Keflavik airport to what the airline pilot called "a light snow" or what we would call "a blizzard". And yes, there was not jetway and we had to cross the tarmac in the snow at 6:30 in the morning. The temps the first few days we were there ranged from -3 C to -13 C and that was not counting the wind chill. My flip flops were not going to cut it in Reykjavik. Luckily, we bought good snowy weather hikers, packed our snow pants, hats, and gloves and were clothing-wise ready (although I am not sure I was mentally-ready) for the cold.

Walking off the plane in Keflavik and into some "light snow".

Reykjavik is the northernmost capital in the world. As a family, we have been to Key West (the southernmost point in the US) and Barrow, AK (the northernmost point) where Gabby and I did a Polar Bear Plunge into the Arctic Ocean.

(Yes, that is an iceberg behind us in Barrow, AK.
 Gabby: "Mom, what is your plan for this?"
Me: We will hold hand and run into the water and when I say "Dive" just dive."
 Gabby: "That does not sound like much of a plan."
And yet, she followed my plan.)

The greater Reykjavik population is about 200,000 and the country has a population of only 320,000. Iceland, a Nordic island nation, is defined by its dramatic volcanic landscape of geysers, hot springs, waterfalls, glaciers and black-sand beaches. The majority of the population speaks English and after an economic scare in 2008, has rebuilt itself as a tourist destination, and if you visit, you will not be disappointed.

Reykjavik looking across the frozen city pond

Unlike the US or many European countries, the most important day of Christmas is on the 24th. Starting at 6 PM, Christmas officially begins with the ringing of church bells to celebrate the Jol. After the Christmas service, Icelanders have a dinner that is shared with only the nearest and dearest family and then they open presents under the tree.

City Center of old town Reykjavik

When we planned our trip and were quite excited to see an inexpensive flight that arrive on the morning of the 24th (Thursday), we booked it. We found an Icelandair hotel (the Marina) right on the harbor and within walking distance to the Reykjavik city center.

View of the harbor from our room at the Marina. The boats were in the harbor for the holiday and even they were decked out with lights.

However, as we researched, we realized that there might be some hiccups with our travel plans because we were going to be arriving during the holidays. Luckily, with some research and planning, we were able to make things work out (the website http://www.iheartreykjavik.net/ has wonderful tips for travel to Iceland). While many restaurants were closed from the 24th-26th, we found one of the that was open on Christmas Eve (Icelandic Fish and Chips)  and was within walking distance from our hotel. We also had read that most grocery stores would close in the early afternoon on the 24th and not open until Saturday and the liquor stores (called Vin Buden) would close around 1 PM and not reopen until Monday. Looking on-line, again we were pleased to note that there was a 10-11 (grocery store) and a Vin Buden within walking distance from our hotel. We also planned a tour of the southern coast for the 25th, so I am not sure how difficult it would have been to find an open restaurant on the 25th. (From what another couple told us later, the only place they could find was the "American Bar", but this may have been a choice not just a necessity.)

Some of the restaurant's on the
official list to have been open on Christmas, such as the "Burger Joint" turned out to be closed on the 25th. If you travel to Iceland during Christmas, make sure you have some back up plans. 

A window display that used marshmallows as snow.

Amazing lights

We arrived at our hotel near the Reykjavik harbor and set out to run our errands before stores closed. I expected the city of Reykjavik to be in darkness most of the time since the sun was not going to rise so late and set so quickly.






Living in the country, it can get dark at night. I was not sure how we would navigate or how I would cope in a dark environment. However, what I did not realize at the time was that because of the cheap electricity due to the geothermal and hydroelectric energy Iceland produces, at Christmastime, the entire country embraces Christmas lights and is illuminated in an amazing fashion. Also, many of the sidewalks are geothermally heated, so the snow melts quickly. (However, I should note that there are many sidewalks that are not heated and if you are traveling in the winter, consider bringing YakTracks or some kind of cleats for walking around the city) Seriously, anywhere you looked, there were strings of lights, stars, and trees lit up. The old city center even had an ice skating rink, which... Okay, it was nice to be able to go ice skating with Christmas carols, some in English and some in Icelandic, playing.

Ice skating in the city center.

I was much happier that we skated on ice rather than taking part in the Fermented Skate Day on the 23rd. This is a new, and some call is bizarre tradition, where people get together and eat a flat fish called skate which has been fermenting for a month or more. People say that the smell of it will clear your sinuses out for a week or so. Some Icelanders look at it as kind of a macho thing to do, usually requiring a shot or two of schnapps or Brennivin in order to actually be able to swallow the stuff.

Another Christmas tradition is the Laufabrauo or "leaf breads". These are round, wafer-thin wheat breads, cut with intricate patterns. Families and friends will get together to make them and if ones turn out to be too pretty to eat, they will be tied up with red ribbon and put onto the tree. Others will be eaten with Christmas or New Years dinners and served with butter.



These are actually made of paper, but this is what the leaf breads are supposed to look like.

It sounds like many of the same concerns we have in the States plague Iceland as well. The fears of Global Warming are prevalent. While we were lucky to arrive in time for White Christmas, Icelanders have noticed that White Christmases are fewer and farther between than in the past. Also, one of our guides, Loki, lamented that when he was growing up, every house and apartment was decorated with lights and now people are too busy to decorate (we saw plenty and I thought it was quite amazing, but I did not grow up there). Also, the commercialism is hitting Iceland. In the past, Christmas sales and decorations were not put out until December 1st (or the first day of Advent), now it seems that Christmas sales start around October 20th. And we heard that Christmas songs were being played earlier and earlier. So, sometimes, when you travel, you find that we all have more in common than we think.

The main custom that sets Iceland apart from other European countries and the United States, is that the children of Iceland do not wait for Santa Claus to appear...Oh, no... they wait for the Yule Lads! While there is only one Santa Claus, there are 13 Yule Lads who live in a cave in the mountains, with their mother Gryla and the child eating Yule Cat...but that, my friends, is a story for another post.

...And friends wonder why we no longer send Christmas cards

Our kids are used to me taking their photograph, but sometimes I am sure get tired of it. They can handle candid or action shots, but formal, posed photographs bring out their, let's call it "creative" side. Last night, as we were about to leave for their Holiday band concert, and they were in their formal concert attire, I tried to get some photographs of them. The results...well, they speak for themselves.



"Give me a NICE smile."

 

From the look on her face, Gabs just realized she can join the shenanigans,

Dylan realizes this is starting to make me crazy.

Because nothing says "Merry Christmas" like a zombie face.

They are ready to audition for The Addams Family

Formally attired Karate Kids

 

 

As soon as I gave a heavy sigh and said "I give up!" I got a smile.

 

Merry Christmas Everyone!

Short-Cut Chicken Pot Pie

My family loves Chicken Pot Pie, but it is one of those meals that can be labor intensive and time consuming if you make it totally from scratch. You have to cook the chicken, cook the vegetables, make the white sauce, and make the pie crust. Most days I don't feel like spending several hours in the kitchen and having to deal with a sink load of dishes to wash. I have tried recipes that call for using condensed Cream of Chicken soup and they always taste odd to me. I have found that I can make a trade off: make the white sauce from scratch, but cut corners other places.

Such as using a grocery store Rotisserie chicken (you still have to get it off the bones, but the cooking is done for you) , frozen and refrigerated vegetables,

 and a premade, roll out pie crust. The results taste like you made it from scratch, but in about half the time (or more).

Also, you can make this recipe up to the point of filling the pie plates the night or morning before. Another time saver is that they freeze really well. This recipe makes 2 chicken pot pies. If you only need one, cover the second with saran, put into a freezer bag and put in the freezer. To cook, thaw and bake as usual. You can probably even bake from frozen, but I would suggest covering the pie with foil during the 30 minutes of baking, then remove foil and bake another 30 minutes.

You will need:
 1 Rotisserie chicken, off the bones and cut into small pieces
 1 cup of onions (I usually use yellow or white ones, but had used part of a red one in a salad so used this)
 1 cup refrigerated diced hash browns
 1 cup crinkle cut frozen carrots, cut into quarters
 1 cup frozen peas
 1 cup frozen corn
 5 Tbs flour
 5 Tbs butter
 1 c chicken broth
 1 c milk
 1-2 tsp herbs such as thyme or rosemary
 salt and pepper
 2-4 refrigerated roll out pie crusts (sometimes I like the chicken pot pie have both a bottom and top crust. I think it holds together better, but you can save calories and have just a top crust, especially if you make the white sauce thick enough)
 milk for brushing on top of the pie crusts

 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

 Then melt the butter over medium in a sauce pan. When melted, add the onions and sauté until translucent (about 3 minutes).

Then add the flour and stir until the onions are coated and the mixture starts to bubble.

 Next, slowly pour in the chicken broth and then the milk.

 

 Cook, stirring to combine and then turn the heat to medium-low and cook this mixture until it is thick (keep an eye on it so it does not burn). When the mixture is thick, turn off heat, add herbs, salt and pepper to taste, stir, and set aside for a few minutes while you do the next step.

 

 In a large bowl, mix together the chicken and vegetables.

 

Then pour the white sauce over the chicken and vegetable mixture and stir gently to combine.

 Next, you can cover the bowl with Saran and put in the refrigerator until ready to use or go ahead and fill the pie dishes if you are going to bake them right away.

Sometimes I like having a bottom and top crusts. If using a bottom crust, roll out crust and put into pie pan, gently dimpling the crust with your fingers. Pour the mixture into the dishes, cover with pie crusts and brush with milk.

Bake for 30-40 minutes or until the pie crust is a golden brown.

Yum! Loaded with chicken and vegetables. This is good stuff!